Can you provide information on any electrical issues commonly experienced with the 2012 Chevy Captiva?

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Chevy Malibu 2001 Feb 15, 2021

If the alternator in a 2012 Chevy Captiva is malfunctioning, there will be clear indications. One obvious sign is a dead battery. While a dead battery doesn't always indicate a bad alternator, it is a common cause. If the alternator isn't completely malfunctioning, you may observe dim or erratic behavior in the instrument panel, possibly accompanied by flickering and noise due to fluctuating power supply. Replacing the alternator can cost between $300 and $500, covering parts and labor. While it may seem expensive, it's necessary to prevent further issues. Delaying replacement could result in a dead battery within a few weeks, leading to an additional cost of around $100. If you opt to replace it yourself, you'll need to unfasten the clamps and remove it, but fortunately, it is easily accessible at the front of the vehicle.

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James W Nov 4, 2020

This vehicle is absolute garbage. The electrical issues need to be addressed with a recall.
Jeanne R. Aug 20, 2020

The top electrical issues that happen often with the 2012 Chevy Captiva include problems with the battery, electrical shorts, or alternator not working correctly.
Lower lower Dec 30, 2021

I'm also facing issues with the electrical system of my 2012 Captiva. Shortly after purchasing it, I had to replace the catalytic converter. When it hit 100,000 miles, the computer board malfunctioned and needed repair. Now, it's running poorly and sometimes struggles to start. It even stalled on me while I was at the store. The car has 136,000 miles on it, and it seems like either the starter or alternator is the problem. I'd prefer to trade it for a different car, but that's not feasible at the moment.
King F Apr 18, 2023

I own a 2012 Chevy Captiva that keeps slipping out of gear while I'm driving. I replaced the gearbox but the issue persists. Any ideas on what might be causing this and how can I resolve it?
Joe dodge Dec 3, 2022

It seems like someone is replacing parts based solely on what the diagnostic tester indicates as faulty. There are not many individuals who investigate further beyond the tester's recommendations. Initially, it is essential to ensure the battery cables are clean and securely attached, a step that has remained consistent. Additionally, applying dielectric grease to prevent corrosion may be necessary. Nowadays, it appears that many new mechanics prefer relying on diagnostic machines inside the vehicle, which can sometimes lead them in the wrong direction. They seem more inclined to switch out parts rather than thoroughly understanding the issue at hand.
David Ridgely is Jan 26, 2021

I am now on my fourth alternator and had to replace my battery cables, ECM, and BCM. The dealer mentioned that the battery cables for my car were too small, costing me over $3000 in electrical problems alone. Additionally, my car is consuming a quart of oil every thousand miles, and I'm unable to determine where it's being used up.

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