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Can you tell me about the issues that Chevrolet Captiva may face?
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★ Top Answer
The Chevrolet Captiva has received numerous complaints about various aspects of its performance and features. One frequent issue is related to the battery, which tends to die prematurely and more frequently than usual. There are also concerns about the battery overheating. Around 60,000 miles, there have been reported cases of alternator failure, and at around 73,000 miles, some owners have experienced complete transmission failure. Engine problems are also prevalent, including excessive oil consumption, timing chain issues, rough engine operation, and problems with the camshaft actuator sensor. Another common complaint is the key getting stuck in the ignition, typically occurring between 60,000 and 70,000 miles. Some other complaints involve instrument panel blackout, jerky drivetrain, random engagement of Stabilitrak, and malfunctioning power windows.
More answers
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I'm having trouble removing my key from the ignition. I accidentally left the key inside and now I can't get it out when I try to get back in.
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I had to swap out the engine in my 2014 Chevy Captiva because I'm still making payments on it. The engine itself was $3200, and the labor cost me $1200. I noticed there was a class action lawsuit involving the Captiva models from 2010 to 2013, which is concerning because my 2014 has the same engine.
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In the summer heat, my 2015 Chevy Captiva 2.4L loses power when the temperature rises above 28 degrees. I have to stop for 10-20 minutes, then it drives for about 20 kilometers before stalling again. However, it runs smoothly when the temperature drops. To avoid this issue, I usually plan my long trips for nighttime or early morning. Can you offer any advice on what might be causing this problem and how to fix it?
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I'm experiencing issues with the reverse feature on my Chevrolet Captiva 2.4, and now I'm also noticing a decrease in power when driving forward.
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I am experiencing issues with my Capiva engine running unevenly and having oil present in the intake.
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There's an oil leak coming from the two crankshaft bolts near the rear main. I tried applying sealant to the bolts and putting everything back together, but the leak persists. The issue began after the recent freeze. I also cleaned the PCV valve and the area under the intake manifold.
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In 2010, I bought a 2012 Chevy Captiva with 90,000 miles on it. Shortly after, the Check Engine light came on, showing three codes: Camshaft sensor, Timing Chain sensor, and Transmission sensor. Even though the light would go off after a few trips, the car felt extremely slow. I kept driving it for about a year until one day the power locks started going crazy, locking and unlocking rapidly while I was on the road. I traded it in and now I'm amused to see many others experiencing the same issues. This SUV is a total lemon. Don't be enticed by a cheap price for a seemingly well-equipped vehicle.
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Most of the time, when I put my car in park and immediately turn the key, or restart the car and then quickly turn it off and remove the key, it allows me to take the key out easily.
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Last year, I purchased a 2012 Chevrolet Captiva LT with approximately 90 kilometers on the odometer. Recently, I've been experiencing issues with the car, such as erratic gauge behavior while driving, sluggish performance, intermittent door lock malfunctions, and smoke coming out of the exhaust.
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My traction control system is acting up - the light is coming on and I can feel the car getting really sluggish when the wheels lose traction.
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I am having an issue with the coolant temperature sensor in my 2011 Chevy Captiva. It keeps failing even though I have replaced the sensor, but the problem persists. It worked for a couple of days and then stopped working again.
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I apologize, but it seems like there is a typo in the text you provided. Can you please clarify or type the text again so I can paraphrase it for you?
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I drive a 2011 Chevrolet Captiva with a 2.5-liter engine. However, the front passenger seat is unable to fold down from the back.
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I own a 2015 Chevy Captiva, and in very cold weather, the PCV valve froze, causing the rear seal to blow out. A service bulletin was released for models from 2013 and earlier with the same issue, but GM doesn't seem to be addressing it for newer models. Unfortunately, I don't have the funds to have a mechanic repair it for me.
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I own a 2014 Chevy Captiva with around 68,000 miles on it, and it's running smoothly without any issues. It still drives well, and if I encounter any problems down the road, I'll make sure to share them. I've had this car for a few years now, and I genuinely enjoy it.
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I've been driving the 2020 Captiva without any problems, but it's not exactly great on gas mileage.
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Running the battery down and then, when you try to start it, the engine is not maintaining a steady idle.
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I owned a 2012 car that had 42,000 miles on it. Within that time, it needed two gearboxes, an oil cooler, and a new radiator. Unfortunately, the timing belt eventually broke, resulting in the car being completely totaled. It was a complete wreck.
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My 2021 Captiva underwent a recall for replacement of the engine cover and A/C fuse. Since the recall, the engine temperature gauge has been rising unexpectedly. This is concerning as the engine temperature should typically be around 100%. This situation has made me doubt the reliability of this car.
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Begin the issue.
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I didn't have a solution. I took excellent care of my 2012 Captiva LT Sport, but at 91,000 miles, I decided to trade it in for a new car because I was tired of spending money on it with no clear answers about the recurring issues. I brought it to two different trusted body shops, but they couldn't figure out the problems either. They recommended that I get a new car, even though this one was paid off. They said the issues were strange, they tried to track them back to the beginning but couldn't find any answers. I was surprised because I always drove the car carefully and didn't take any risks with it. From 37,000 to 91,000 miles, the car mostly sat covered under a tarp and only occasionally driven. It's frustrating.
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I bought a 2012 Chevy Cap with around 90,000 miles on it. I've experienced all the issues you mentioned with my car. To remove the key, I've had to manipulate the release button located behind my steering wheel every time. Initially, the car seemed great considering the price, but soon became slow. Over time, with now about 154,000 miles on it, my car has deteriorated significantly. It shakes at idle, has high oil consumption without any leaks, and trembles noticeably when I exceed 60 mph, feeling like it's losing speed. When I drive on the highway, the car displays 60 mph but I feel like I'm only going around 50 mph, and everyone else is passing me. I used to love the car and even used it for ridesharing, which caused some wear and tear. However, when I take it to dealerships, they can't pinpoint the exact issues, suggesting it's a combination of various problems.
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