A car emissions test checks whether your vehicle meets your state’s emissions standards by scanning the OBD-II system, confirming all required readiness monitors are complete, and ensuring no active or pending fault codes are present. To pass in any state, your car must show a stable check-engine-light status, have no emission-related leaks or sensor faults, and meet the testing method used locally, OBD-II only or a tailpipe measurement.
What Does a Car Emissions Test Usually Check?
A car emissions test confirms your vehicle meets the requirements for car registration. You need to make sure that key emission controls are working. The lane checks readiness, stored faults, and the malfunction indicator light. Passing keeps paperwork moving for vehicle registration. Moreover, it helps avoid renewal delays.
What Does the OBD-II System Check and How Does It Work?
This system is the most common emission check on modern motor vehicles today. It watches a key sensor signal set and runs self-tests as you drive. When a system drifts out of range, it stores diagnostic trouble codes that inspectors read during the test. It also tracks readiness, which means your car has completed required self-checks since the last reset. If you clear codes, readiness resets, and the lane can record a failed test. Scan first to see how often you need the monitors to run.
Here’s what the onboard system typically evaluates:
- Misfire and fuel trim behavior.
- Catalyst efficiency tracking.
- EVAP sealing, including gas cap sealing.
- EGR flow and air injection status.
- Oxygen sensors' performance.
What Do Tailpipe Emissions Tests Measure?
A tailpipe emission check measures exhaust emissions at the tailpipe. The lane inserts a probe and samples gases and pollutants released from the exhaust stream. Depending on the state, the car is measured under load on a dynamometer to simulate driving conditions. The analyzer compares each pollutant reading to local limits. This method can expose an exhaust system leak or a weak catalytic converter that still looks “ready” on the computer.
Tailpipe readings often include:
- Carbon monoxide;
- Hydrocarbon;
- Oxide of nitrogen;
- Pollutants emitted during a cruise;
- Oxygen balance.
After 10–15 minutes of normal driving, the catalyst temperature stabilizes. In this case, tailpipe readings are usually more consistent for a fair test.
How to Prepare Your Car to Pass on the First Try

Scan for codes, finish a proper drive cycle, and fix obvious issues early to pass an emissions test on the first try. It also helps to stabilize the battery voltage, avoid making any last-minute repairs that could reset system data, and check that all dashboard systems communicate properly with the vehicle’s computer so the inspector can complete the test without interruptions.
The Complete Readiness Monitor Guide
Readiness monitors prove that each emission self-check has run since the last reset. If too many monitors show “not ready,” the station may stop the test and log a failed test even with no light on. This is common after battery work or code clearing. Plan early if you are due for an emissions test. Some monitors only run under specific speeds and temperatures. If you want to pass a smog check, the required monitors must be set. No pending faults should remain.
Use this order to get monitors ready:
- Scan and write down any codes and freeze-frame info.
- Complete the necessary repairs without clearing memory first.
- Drive a mixed loop: stops, steady cruise, and decel.
- Rescan and confirm that readiness is set.
- Book the official test only after it has stayed stable.
What to Do the Day Before the Test
The day before the test, keep conditions steady and avoid resets. Drive long enough to warm the catalyst and rerun emission checks. Don’t overfill the tank. Fuel in the vapor lines can delay EVAP checks. Make sure the check engine light stays off after the drive.
Use this checklist right before you arrive:
- Warm up the engine fully.
- Drive for 20–40 minutes.
- Verify CEL is off.
- Check monitors one last time.
- Ensure fuel tank is ¼–¾ full.
What Are the Most Common Reasons Cars Fail Emissions Tests?

Sometimes, readiness is incomplete, a fault code is stored, or the EVAP system finds a leak during its self-check. Failures can also occur when the vehicle’s engine or emissions hardware is operating outside the expected temperature range, when software calibration is outdated, or when aftermarket parts aren’t communicating correctly with the vehicle’s computer. Even small inconsistencies in sensor data can cause the system to flag the car as not meeting standards.
Early Warning Signs Your Car Will Fail
Emissions issues usually show up before the official test. A small drivability change can come first, then a pending code appears. After a fill-up, bad gas in a car can trigger misfires that raise an emission reading. A rough idle, fuel smell, or repeated “tighten cap” message points to a vapor leak. Address the issue early to protect the converter and increase your chances of passing.
Watch for these warning signs before inspection day:
- Rough idle after a warm restart.
- Fuel odor near the rear of the vehicle.
- Rattle from under the floor on bumps.
- Repeated “tighten cap” prompts after you replace the gas cap.
- Noticeable hesitation during steady cruise.
How to Read and Interpret Your OBD-II Results Before Testing
A quick pre-check helps you avoid a surprise at the state test. Start with readiness status, then look for pending faults that have not turned on a light yet. Next, review fuel trims and misfire counters for trends. If you see a code, don’t erase it right away; you may reset monitors and trigger a failed test. Use the table to decide the next step. For full definitions and technical test-mode behavior, see the SAE J1979-DA diagnostic standard.
| Code Group | Meaning | Impact on Emissions Test | Recommended Next Step |
| P03xx | Misfire | Immediate fail | Diagnostics, maintenance, drive cycle |
| P04xx | EVAP leak | Likely fail | Diagnostics, maintenance, drive cycle |
| P0420 | Catalyst efficiency | Possible pass | Diagnostics, maintenance, drive cycle |
Understanding Emissions Rules in Different States
Many states run county programs, so rules can vary from state to state, and checks are often set for one to two years. Emissions testing requirements vary, so verify your local schedule before you book a test. For example, Arizona requires emissions testing only in Maricopa and Pima counties, Colorado runs enhanced testing in the Denver Metro area, and Georgia limits testing to the Atlanta region. Meanwhile, states such as Florida and Michigan have discontinued emissions programs entirely, so requirements depend heavily on where the vehicle is registered.
Why Do Some States Use Different Emissions Tests?
Different regions choose different tests. Weather, altitude, and traffic change the impact on the environment. Some areas focus on ozone seasons. Others target greenhouse gases. Budgets matter too: scan lanes use less testing equipment than tailpipe sampling. The Environmental Protection Agency supports plans that reduce air pollution.
States With the Strictest Requirements
Strict programs usually add steps beyond a scan and enforce tighter cutpoints, following state regulations such as those defined by the California Bureau of Automotive Repair. They often require testing more frequently in metro counties. They may include a visual inspection and use testing to ensure parts match emissions standards. Keep receipts for major work and verified aftermarket parts.
| State/Area | Typical Test Type | Notes That Affect Owners |
| California | Smog test with scan and some tailpipe | Tight cutpoints and aftermarket rules |
| New York (NYC metro) | Scan plus safety inspection | An annual schedule is common |
| Colorado (Front Range) | Scan or dynamometer lane | Altitude can influence results |
| Massachusetts | Scan plus safety inspection | Quick renewal blocks after a fail |
States With Minimal or No Testing Requirements
Some states test only in select counties. Others have no ongoing program. Even then, cities may require testing for certain fleets or older vehicles. If you move into a stricter area, it’s possible to fail an emissions test even if the vehicle ran fine before.
| State/Area | Typical Test Type | Notes That Affect Owners |
| Florida | None statewide | No periodic emission requirement |
| South Dakota | None statewide | Registration without routine tests |
| Michigan | None statewide | No regular emission inspection |
| Montana (most counties) | None or limited | County-based lanes in a few areas |
What to Do When Moving to a New State
Moving changes your rules overnight. Treat the first visit like a checklist. Start by confirming whether states require emissions testing in your new county. Scan for codes, complete a drive cycle, and arrive warmed up. Bring documents and confirm your car insurance meets the new minimums. Otherwise, you may not be able to legally drive on new plates until it’s fixed.
Plan based on the following steps:
- Confirm what the vehicle needs for the first visit.
- Schedule the lane visit and bring documents.
- Keep receipts for any work and parts.
- Plan time for a return visit if required.
- Save results for your records.
Emissions Test Costs, Repairs, and When to Invest
Costs depend on the lane and the fix. Scan lanes are usually cheaper than tailpipe lanes, and repair costs can jump. Check a vehicle history report for repeat failures before you invest, especially with an older vehicle.
| Item | Typical Cost Range | Notes |
| Lane fee | Low to medium | Depends on area and test type |
| EVAP fix | Low | Often seals, hoses, or caps |
| Converter work | Medium to high | May include exhaust system parts |
Is Pre-Test Diagnostics Worth It?
Yes. A pre-check can catch readiness gaps and pending faults before you pay the lane fee. It often saves a second trip. A simple diagnostic test at home, like an OBD scan, can tell you whether you’re ready to go.
What Happens If You Fail — And How to Fix It
When you fail, the report shows whether it was readiness, a code, or tailpipe numbers. Start with sealing checks, then move to mixture control and catalyst efficiency. Use a VIN decoder so parts match the label. After each repair, complete the drive cycle, rescan, and book a test only when the data looks stable. If you fail an emissions test twice, ask for a documented plan before you pay again.
Fix it in this order:
- Read the report and confirm the exact reason.
- Check EVAP lines and connections first.
- Verify oxygen sensors' response and fuel trims.
- Repair catalyst or leak issues if indicated.
- Drive, rescan, and request a retest.
When Can You Request an Emissions Waiver?
A waiver is usually available only after you spend a required amount on approved work and still cannot pass. You’ll need receipts and proof that emission control components were addressed under emissions regulations. Because rules vary by state, confirm steps before you rely on a waiver for vehicle registration. For example, California may issue a waiver only after documented repairs exceed a state-set minimum, while Colorado requires motorists to attempt all “reasonable repairs” before applying. In Illinois, the repair cost threshold must be met at a certified emissions facility, whereas New York allows hardship waivers only under strict DMV review. Always check your specific state’s cost limits and documentation list before requesting one.
Summary

- Emissions tests rely on two systems: the OBD-II scan and readiness monitors. Passing requires both to show stable, complete data with no active fault codes.
- Each state applies different testing rules. Some use OBD-II only, others include tailpipe checks, and the number of allowed incomplete monitors varies by DMV program.
- Most failures come from predictable points. Oxygen sensors, catalytic converter efficiency issues, and EVAP leaks are the most common causes to check first.
- Always run a pre-test OBD-II scan. It helps identify trouble codes early, confirms monitor status, and reduces the chance of surprise failures.
- If you fail, follow a structured recovery path: review the report → diagnose the cause → repair → complete a drive cycle → retest within the allowed window.
- Waivers are available in many states when documented repair costs exceed set thresholds, so you may still qualify for registration even if your car cannot fully pass.
- Test early to avoid registration delays. Missing timelines can lead to temporary holds or late fees, especially for new residents or vehicles with prior failures.
Frequently Asked Questions
Aftermarket parts can trigger an automatic failure if they change airflow, remove controls, or alter exhaust emissions. Common causes include:
- Cold air intake without approval.
- Non-approved catalytic converter.
- ECU tune that disables monitors.
- Header change that moves oxygen sensors.
- Exhaust cutouts that bypass controls.
Most DMVs require the emissions test during initial registration. It's often within 30–90 days. However, deadlines vary by state. Confirm the county rule early, because late testing can delay plates and processing.
Even a short renewal can require the emissions test because the system often treats any renewal as a full cycle. Depending on the state, renewal may be blocked until you complete the emission requirement.
Yes. Low-quality fuel can increase tailpipe readings, especially under load, and it can trigger misfire monitoring. Refill it with fresh fuel and drive normally.
Get code details, fix the root cause, complete the drive cycle, then return for another test. If it still doesn’t pass, ask about a waiver path or referee review.